Jacques Besner Jacques Besner

How to Build Your Skincare Routine

Whenever I am around skincare newbies, I always get asked, “How do you build a skincare routine?”

The skincare world is filled with a dizzying array of products, brands, ingredients, and promotional claims. It can become overwhelming to figure out where to start and how to navigate the sea of options.

I’ve had a skincare routine for over 35 years, and it has evolved as my skin’s needs have changed, and as my understanding of ingredients and layering has grown. I’ve become a skincare nerd, a lover of self-care, and a firm believer in the well-deserved me-time spent with my skin.

Whenever I am around skincare newbies, I always get asked, “How do you build a skincare routine?”

The skincare world is filled with a dizzying array of products, brands, ingredients, and promotional claims. It can become overwhelming to figure out where to start and how to navigate the sea of options.

I’ve had a skincare routine for over 35 years, and it has evolved as my skin’s needs have changed, and as my understanding of ingredients and layering has grown. I’ve become a skincare nerd, a lover of self-care, and a firm believer in the well-deserved me-time spent with my skin.

My love of skincare has led me to develop a truly elaborate routine that covers all bases for my skin’s needs. I adapt it as needed, and I have entirely different routines for day and night. However, I’m aware that most people prefer a more streamlined approach, which is why I often suggest simplified routines. These routines are designed to improve the skin’s overall health while protecting it from environmental damage, free radicals, and daily exposure to pollution.

The 3 Basic Steps

Step 1: Cleanse

The first step in any routine is cleansing. Regardless of your skin type, your skin sheds dead cells, which can accumulate on the surface. Cleansing is essential to remove dirt, bacteria, and impurities.

You should cleanse your face twice a day: once in the morning to remove oils, sweat, and any bed residue, and again in the evening to wash away makeup, sunscreen, pollution, and exposure to the elements.

In the morning, most dermatologists and estheticians recommend a gentle cleanse with something like micellar water or a milk cleanser. In the evening, a double cleanse is highly recommended. The first cleanse removes the surface grime, while the second ensures that any remaining product is thoroughly removed, which is important to prevent clogged pores and breakouts.

For the first cleanse at night, you can use micellar water or a milk cleanser, followed by a gel-type cleanser to dislodge any tenacious pigments or residue hiding in your pores.

Pro Tip: Every cleanser, even micellar water, must be rinsed off. Failure to do so simply moves dirt around the face and allows it to settle into your pores.

Step 2: Moisturize

Moisturizing is a must for all skin types. Most moisturizers on the market today include active ingredients that help improve skin texture, tone, and overall appearance.

Moisturizers come in various textures, from gel to cream. Those with drier skin may prefer thicker creams, while oilier skin types will gravitate toward lighter, gel-based formulas. Your choice of moisturizer may also change with the seasons—lighter products in warmer weather, and richer ones in colder months.

When applying moisturizer, use upward motions on your face and gentle downward strokes on your neck, extending the product down to your chest. And for the ladies, don’t forget the décolletage!

Step 3: Sun Protection

Sun protection is crucial for daytime. Sunscreen protects your skin from the harmful effects of UV rays. I recommend using a sunscreen with SPF 50, which offers the highest level of protection. Apply it 30 minutes before sun exposure and reapply every two hours while outdoors.

Not all sunscreens are created equal. Some have fluid textures that leave a luminous finish, while others are thicker and may even double as a makeup primer. Choose one that suits your preference and skin needs.

Fragrance

Fragrance does nothing to hydrate or benefit the skin; it is added purely for sensory pleasure. Since companies aren’t required to disclose the ingredients in their fragrance blends, I prefer to avoid fragrance in most skincare products.

While I enjoy fragrance as a separate entity, I typically avoid spraying it directly onto my skin. Instead, I spray it onto my clothes to minimize contact. The only skincare product where I don’t mind fragrance is in cleansers, as they are rinsed off and the contact is minimal.

Alcohol

While I don’t want to spend too much time vilifying ingredients, I do strongly advise avoiding alcohol, especially denatured alcohol. This ingredient can dry out the skin and promote oxidation, which can cause long-term damage at a cellular level.

Many expensive creams are filled with it, and while some claim it evaporates before reaching the skin, I would avoid it whenever possible. In makeup, where products sit on top of the skin, alcohol is less of an issue. But in skincare, where products are meant to penetrate and heal, alcohol should be avoided.

Packaging

Packaging plays a significant role in maintaining a product’s effectiveness. As a general rule, products exposed to less air and less contact with your hands will stay potent for longer. Pump bottles and squeeze tubes are ideal for preserving product integrity and are also more travel friendly.

Pots, though iconic, expose the product to air and require dipping your fingers in, which can introduce bacteria and reduce the formula’s effectiveness over time.

Discipline

I know, discipline isn’t everyone’s favorite word, but it’s essential when establishing a consistent skincare routine. Skin operates on roughly a 30-day cycle, so it’s important to give products time to work. This is why it’s critical to stick to a routine—cleansing, moisturizing, and protecting daily to maintain healthy skin.

Skincare is a long-term investment, much like fitness. It won’t keep you young forever, but it will keep you looking refreshed at every age.

Skincare can certainly get more complex, and I’ll dive deeper into the role of active ingredients soon.

Until next time, keep defining beauty on your own terms—you are already beautiful, just as you are.

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